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By Mark Budniewski
Though you may already have one of the pre-assembled 2008 Dodge Challenger SRT8 Showroom Replicas “promotional” models, it’s great to be able to get both the 2008 SRT8 and 2009 R/T in unassembled kit form too. Doing your own painting and assembly gives you the opportunity to choose one of the exterior colors not available on the assembled model. You may even want to try a color scheme not available on the real car, such as one of the colors from the original Challenger. You can also pick out little details that aren’t highlighted on the pre-built version. The information provided here will help you with the detail painting that will make your finished Challenger look just right, whether in an authentic stock color or one that Dodge should have offered. Each sub-assembly will be covered individually, most information being common to both the 2008 SRT/8 and 2009 R/T. Where there are differences between the two versions, painting information will be provided for both. For the 2009 models, you can check out the Dodge website for information also, at least until the 2010 models are available.
Note that within this information, several “finishes” are mentioned relating to the color black. Between flat black, which has no gloss at all, and gloss black, which is fully glossy, some parts are designated as “semi-flat black” and “semi-gloss” black which are in between the two as follows:
Underbody
With the exception of the exhaust system detail, the chassis pan (part 1) should be semi-flat black, matching the rocker panels on the body (which will be discussed later). Figure 1 shows the exhaust areas that should be painted dull silver. The rest should be semi-flat black. When viewing the completed model placed on a flat surface, little of the exhaust system will be visible anyway.
Inside Information
Dodge Challenger interiors for both 2008 and 2009 models are offered in one color, Dark Slate Gray. There are some detail differences though, centered around the seat upholstery inserts. The seats in the Challenger kits are molded in hard PVC vinyl and not the usual styrene plastic. Because of this, it is recommended that acrylic paints be used for painting the front and rear seats. Most enamels will not dry when applied to vinyl, and even if they do, the paint will likely be damaged while the parts are handled during assembly.
The Dark Slate Gray interior color is extremely dark, so much so that when viewed from outside the car it can appear to be black. It may be difficult to find a gray paint that is as dark as is needed here. Check out “weathered black” acrylics such as Tamiya “NATO Black”. If you have a flat black that you haven’t used because it “isn’t black enough”, now might be the time to give it a second look!
Another way to obtain the “dark slate gray” color would be to add drops of flat gray paint to a bottle of flat black. If you choose to do this, though, make sure you have enough paint mixed ahead of time to cover all of the areas that need to be painted. You could just purchase the smallest available bottle of flat black in your favorite brand of acrylic, and dedicate that bottle to the project. Test the mixture on scrap material or the hidden backside of a part, to make sure you are satisfied with the results. While using the mixed paint, it is advisable to keep mixing it periodically as you work.
Because nearly everything is one color, your main concern when painting the interior will be to get the appropriate degree of flatness or sheen on each area. This is true whether your interior color is “strictly stock” Dark Slate Gray, or a color chosen by you to complement a non-factory exterior color. Getting the proper contrast between the various areas will go a long way in making any interior color look convincing.
The Challenger interior has several areas of contrast: the carpeting, the shelf behind the rear seat, the fabric door panel and seat inserts, headliner, different segments of the steering wheel, and the molded door panels, instrument panel, and console. When given the proper attention, these areas will stand out when compared to a model that simply has had everything painted in one finish. The variations in finish can be achieved by applying clear acrylic over the flat paint in varying degrees of gloss. The finish on the molded door panels and instrument panel can be rubbed with a cloth to buff them a bit, creating contrast with the dullness of the fabric inserts in the doors, and the carpeting. The inserts in the instrument panel (around the video screen) and the top of the console have yet more of a sheen to them. The finish on these areas should be coated with clear gloss, which will tend to be absorbed into the flat gray underneath, knocking down the degree of gloss just a bit. A casual look inside the car (in 1:1, or in scale) should not reveal any high-gloss surfaces.
After the gauge and GPS screen decal areas are painted white in preparation for application of their respective decals, the areas of the interior that are to be Dark Slate Gray should be painted. After everything has been given sufficient drying time, the molded areas are then buffed with a cloth to remove some of the dullness and provide contrast with the areas of carpet, the door panel inserts, and the shelf behind the rear seat. Those areas are to be left alone. Next, clear gloss is applied to the console and instrument panel in the indicated areas only. The last areas to be painted are the chrome highlights.
Figure 2 shows the gauge and GPS screen areas of the dashboard. Paint these white in order to provide a bright backing for the decals. Gloss white is preferable here; if flat paint is used the decals will more likely give what is called a “silvered“ appearance. In general, decals adhere better to gloss finishes. Flat finish can then be applied over the white areas after the decals have been applied.
After painting all other areas with the flat interior color, Figures 3 and 4 show the areas where the flat finish should remain. On both SRT8 and R/T versions, these areas include: the carpeted areas of the floor pan, the shelf behind the rear seat, and the cloth inserts on the door panels. The inserts behind the doors, in the rear seat area, do not have fabric inserts and should be treated to match the rest of the panel. For the 2008 SRT/8, this includes the cushion areas of the seats as indicated in Figure 5. The 2009 R/T has fabric insert decals for these areas.
Figures 6 and 7 show the areas that should receive the “semi-flat” finish. These areas include: the console portion of the floor pan, the seats (with the exception of the cushion areas on the 2008 SRT/8 version), and the remaining interior parts in their entirety. The areas of the dashboard previously painted white as backing for the decals should of course be left alone.
Figures 8 and 9 show the areas that receive the “semi-gloss” finish. These areas are the portion of the instrument panel surrounding the video screen, the door pulls in the center of each door panel, and the top surface of the console (but not the center armrest).
The chrome silver accents include the lower part of the shifter, the trim surrounding the shifter, the inside door handles, and two pieces of trim on either side of each armrest. If you get silver paint in an area where it doesn’t belong, let it dry. You should be able to scrape the excess away and then touch up the area with the correct color. Of course, this applies to small slip-ups; larger mistakes will require repainting the entire part.
Figure 10 shows the steering wheel for both kit versions. The areas highlighted in red should be painted dull silver. The steering wheel spoke areas are quite small, and the buttons within these areas should be black. After applying the silver, you may need to scrape excess silver paint from the buttons and then go back and repaint the buttons with black.
If you are worried about flexing the PVC seats during assembly, you could install them without the decals, touch up the seats if necessary, then apply the seat decals. The dashboard decals should be applied prior to assembly. The steering wheel decals could be applied before or after the wheel and column are assembled to the dashboard, depending on whether or not you are able to handle the wheel by itself.
Windows
With the exception of the door glass (which is not included on the window unit, part 29) the windows on the 1:1 Challenger are attached to the body from the outside. As on other cars, the attachment areas are painted on the inside of the glass with black “etching primer”. This primer conceals the areas where adhesives are used to bond the glass to its opening in the body. These areas should be painted on the kit window unit. The center “web” that connects the windows should be painted also, to help conceal its presence once installed. The areas on the perimeter of the windows should be flat black. The web area (and the inside of the roof) could be painted Dark Slate Gray to match the rest of the interior, or flat black to simplify the painting process if you wish.
A flat black paint marker could be used on the windows if desired. Acrylic paint, applied with a brush, will likely be easier because mistakes are more easily corrected. All painting will be done on the areas facing the inside of the body.
The bonding area on the side “quarter windows” should be painted 1/32” all around. The backlite (rear glass) is painted 3/64” all around. The windshield should also be painted 3/64” all around except for the lower edge, which should be 9/64” wide. See Figure 11 for this information.
Body Front Fascia (part 5)
The front spoiler (part 8 or part 9, depending on model) is a separate piece. This makes things a bit easier here; still, some painting is necessary on the fascia unit itself. Semi-flat black should be applied to the areas indicated in Figure 12. The headlamp recesses are painted silver. The grille (part 10) should be painted semi-flat black, with the trim around the perimeter being chrome silver. The side marker lamps should be painted amber. Most major brands of hobby paint include a “turn signal amber” color which will be correct here.
Body Rear Fascia (part 7)
Semi-flat black should be applied to the rear fascia in the areas indicated in Figure 13. These areas are: the lower portion of the part, and the taillight recess. The lower portion of the taillight recess is not defined by a molded-in line. The separation line is 3/16” in from the outer edge of the bumper as indicated. The side marker lamps on this part should be painted a dark metallic red. The same red paint will be used on the taillight lens, as described next.
Taillight
The taillight lens (part 31) is molded in clear plastic and must be painted. Nearly all painting of the lens will be done on the inside surface (the part facing the body). First paint the backup light area white as indicated in Figure 14. Next, paint the entire backside of the lens dark metallic red. Then, paint over the red area with silver. The silver will provide a reflective backing for the red, giving it a more prototypical appearance. The vertical grooves separating the three segments of the lens can be highlighted with flat black. This is done on the outside surface of the lens.
Body
After applying the main body color of your choice, the body will receive semi-flat black in the areas indicated in Figure 15. These include the rocker panels, the trim around the side window areas, the windshield wipers and the antenna bump. All of these areas are sharply defined and should be relatively easy to paint.
Final Assembly
After final assembly, some touchups may be needed in areas where excessive handling has caused the original paint to wear off. Extra care during assembly will minimize the need for this, however.
We hope this article has helped you to build an authentic and detailed replica of the exciting new Challenger!
